Rondjewereld Check-Ins

Even with GPS hard to find; a lot of oneway streets and flyovers. From the highway it says Policia on the building (not on the other side, where you have to be). The dumpy parking lot was full, park at the curb on the other side of the viaduct that runs over the road. They say your car has to cool down first, so everyone had their hood open. Panamanians come here to have their car checked too, so it's busy. Just inform the inspection guy (no uniform, carrying a small toolbox) that you are there. Checking itself is super fast: just VIN. We had the papers drafted by our agent (Wilhelmsen, shipping to Europe) including all the necessary copies. They keep 1 set. Our agent told us inspection was between 10 and 11 am. We showed up at 9 am and had to wait a bit. We recommend to be here early. You have to return at 2 pm to collect the paperwork at the other side of the highway.

After inspection in the morning, you have to come here at 2 pm for the paperwork. We showed up 1.30 pm and there was already a long line of people. Go to the security booth and tell them why you are here. We both got a visitor pass and were able to pass by the line and enter the building. After a short wait inside a lady came to take down some basic information, while we were standing at the reception desk. Some more waiting and then she re-appeared with the form, looking like a diploma. Check thoroughly and that's it. Easy does it.

This is the fastest way to get to Colon (less than an hour). However it is a toll road, only accesible with a Panapass, a toll pass. You cannot buy them here (no idea if and where you could) and you cannot pay cash. So we turned around and had to take the "normal road" through downtown Panama City. It took us 3,5 hours in afternoon traffic.

We are shipping from Colon to Zeebrugge, Belgium. Our contact was Argentina, a sweet girl who hardly speaks English. We spent 1,5 hour on our first visit, waiting for a bill of lading needed for inspection. It cost a lot of time, because we did not understand each other. Even when trying in Spanish. When she said inspection scheduled for the next day, we thought the car had to be clean. We asked and she said yes. Wow, stress all of a sudden. It turns out the inspection is just police inspection, to verify you are exporting the car you drove into the country. So no detailing of the car needed yet. After police inspection the next day we returned to Barwill to pay and more paperwork. Make sure you ask for a map to find the office in Colon. You will get the name of the person that will be your handler there.

Not really a hostel but simple hotel in quiet neighbourhood of the city. Entrance on Calle Manuel Quintero Villarreal. Parking on premises of hotel within gate, no height restrictions. They have a communal kitchen with some chairs and tables. Room is small and hot. There is airconditoning, but it is very loud and cools only slightly. Room has private bathroom and TV. Bed is OK-ish. Wifi in room and in kitchen area. Double room US$35 + tax = US$ 38 + change

For us this is the nicest campground in Panama. American owned. Huge grassy field behind a wonderful swimming pool. We parked behind the palapa with hammocks and a large table, so we could string an extension cord for electricity. Nearest toilet (with TP) is at the swimming pool, outside cold shower as well. Inside the hostel there are hot showers, toilets and 3 kitchens. All pretty clean. DIY breakfast in the largest kitchen (2 eggs, 2 toast, coffee). Good wifi (though out of order a few hours one afternoon). Friendly American resident (not the owner) Sandi likes to chat. US$ 10 per person per night. You enter the camping area through a passage from the small parking lot. If a car blocks the entrance, the staff will find the owner to move the car.

Hostel at the beach, owned by Australian guy. Huge property with tent camping underneath palapa at the beach. We parked our van on a grassy spot underneath a tree. Could just see the ocean from there. Nice communal area with hammocks, tables and chairs and kitchen. Clean toilets (with TP) and showers. Wifi good, did reach our van as well. US$ 14 for 2 persons and a van. US$ 6 for a big load of wash, done by their housekeeping crew and delivered back at the van.

Owned by a Colombian guy, this cabaña hotel is a bit rundown. We paid US$ 15 for 2 persons + van. We stayed next to the cabaña closest to the restaurant. Here we could string an extension cord for power. The toilet and shower areat the side and back of the main building and are very rustic. Toilet with TP and cleanish. Shower tiny and no light, so we kept the door ajar. There is a restaurant, but we would not eat there. The next morning we filled the water tank from the faucet (through a filter).

Looks like a lovely place. Infortunately our van did not fit underneath the gate at the entrance (our height is 3,1 meters). If you would fit, it will be hard to find a level spot on the narrow small parking area (grass). Not sure whether they allow you to sleep in your van, the girl at reception could not reach the owner.

We went here, because Hostal Qhia cannot accommodate vans. American owned motel outside Santa Fe. You can camp behind the motel in the grass (not level), in front of a palapa style structure (more a covered terrace). Be aware that is can be muddy in the rainy season. It is quite close to the road, but there is not much traffic. When we were there the motel was fully booked and in the restaurant there was a function. So the chef cooked some takeout to eat in the van for US$ 7 per plate, A shower, toilet combination is at the back of the building. With TP and clean. Slow Wifi did reach the van. Camping US$ 8 for van and 2 persons.

Owned by Italian lady Marina, this is a hotel with just a few rooms on a back street of Boca Chica (well, this place only has back streets). Mind the very low branches, we are 3.1 meters high and pruned some trees. Camping next to building underneath trees, use of shower and toilet in a room. US $ 20 per night, 2 persons and a van. US $ 2,50 per day per computer (!) for the use of internet (reasonably fast); not really a nice gesture. But internet speed was fine. There is an outdoor space underneath a roof for relaxing, including hammocks (though 1 is taken by the owner). Howler monkeys, geese, chickens and roosters. Marina brought some potable water in gallon bottles, tea one day and some handmade icecream the next. We took the lancha for US $ 1 per person to Boca Brava island, where we hiked on the muddy roads in search of Hotel Boca Brava (supposedly with hiking trails, restaurant, kayak rental), which we did not find. Better ask the lancha captain to take you there. Instead we hiked to the Seagull Cove Lodge to have lunch in the restaurant with a killer view (no camping allowed, we asked).To be honest; Boca Chica is not really an action-packed destination. But it's fine just to chill. We spent 2 nights. Boy, it can really rain cats and dogs here at night.

Well, it isn't exactly a visitor center. It's a house where the ranger collects park fees (US $ 5 per person). But we could stay for free. Ranger Carlos is a wonderful guy. Helped us with parking and left a toilet (no TP) open for us overnight. He gave us a homegrown tomato and paprika. Next morning he offered Gerry a cup of coffee. Very sweet. We intended to do the Sendero de los Quetzales hike until the Mirador (about 3,5 km). Didn't find the Mirador and turned around at 5 km. Muddy, steep in sections. Be prepared to feel your muscles the next day!

Great place. Clean toilet shower/combination (with TP), to be shared with some rooms. Tiny kitchen nook. Grassy spot, swimming pool, good wifi, covered terrace. US$ 12 per night (2 persons + van). We stayed 2 nights. Be aware that the gate is very narrow; we just fit with 2,2 meters width. Length and height are no problem (though no really big rigs probably). You are basically camping in their frontyard. Dog did not bother us. Suggestion while in Boquete: do the coffee tour with Coffee Adventures (Dutch and English spoken, US $ 35 per person). Learned how to do coffee cupping. Nice.

Costa Rica to Panama
This bordercrossing keeps you fit; running around like crazy! We made it into Panama within 2,5 hours.

Exit Costa Rica
* Pay attention, otherwise you miss the migracion building. The trucks lined up are a hint that you are there. We parked to the right.
* Migracion is a blue building to the left. Pro: there is a dual language poster that states what you need to leave the county (receipt of paid exit fee, completed form, passport). Con: no indication where to get the first 2. We asked an official, he just vagualy waved at the Salida window. We asked another tourist, and now we know the right order:
1) Pay the exit fee. There should be a bank (could not find it). We paid across the street at the Impuesto window of Restaurante Anjor's with the green awning. US$ 7 impuesto + US$ 1 tramite (= processing fee). Keep the receipts (they are in your name).
2) Go back to the Salida window of Migracion. Get an exit form to fill out. We asked at the Entrada window (shorter line) and got one each. Why they don't put a display outside with forms beats us.
3) Hand over impuesto receipt + form + passport for a nice stamp. With your stamped passport you get the receipt back.
* Aduana is to the left when facing the Migracion windows, through a short hall way, next to the bathrooms. Wait in line and try to get a form (again we suggest a display with forms at the entrance), basically by asking nicely, while the officer is still processing the person in front of you. They stamp the form you just completed and keep the TIP.
While driving to Panama we did not encounter a boom or officer, so we have have not shown anyone that we actually drove out of Costa Rica with our van.

Entry Panama
Drive up straight ahead to the whitish big buidling with an awning. There are 3 lines underneath the awning, the left one is for personal cars. Park behind the last and keep an eye on the line between the various steps, to see if you have to move it forward (otherwise potentially slower cars get ahead of you).
* Migracion is to the left of where you parked, behind the crumpled staircase (on the Panama side). We were not approached by anyone with a sticker (which we read on earlier reviews), did not need them. At the window hand over your passport. They need to see proove of you leaving the country (we have plane tickets). A digital photo is taking (if you wear glasses, remove them). You get a free stamp.
* First buy vehicle car insurance. The stall across the street was closed. A guy told us to go behind the aduana building (next street). There is the Seguro window. You need a copy of passport (not drivers license) and title (it seems that they made copies for other people, but we had them). You get an original + copy of insurance papers, cost US$ 15 for 1 month. You don't need to have them notarized anymore (used to be upstairs).
* Go to the Aduana, from where your car is parked, the window to the left of the stairs (at Costa Rica side). Go to the Capture and Manifesto window (closest to the line), not actual Aduana window. Hand in the following copies: passport, drivers license, title and the copy of the insurance you got. Plus they need your passport. The lady checked all information and asked additional questions (color, number of doors). Stand to the side for 10 minutes and wait until you are waved. You get a tip with a stamp. You need another stamp after the car is checked.
* The guys with clipboards walk between the lines. He checked inside, just 2 cupboards, got another stamp/signature.
* Then walk towards the fumigation station. There is an office with Oirsa logo to the right, just before the actual stations. We had to pay US$8, car type "terrestre". The lady walked with us to the window across the road, handed our receipt to another guy with a clipboard. Then we got the receipt and were ready to go.
Had to wait a bit until the car in front of us was ready to move.
* At the actual border, there is a military checkpoint. They asked for the TIP. He tried to explain something in Spanish, which we didn't get. Then an older police officer with addorable grade school English explained that when we are checked in Panama, show the TIP and passport only. At least we think that is what he said. When we drove of the younger soldiers high fived the older guy for speaking such good English. He he.

The entrance is pretty steep downhill and up again, but managable. Beautiful garden property with tiny Titi monkeys and agoutis. Swimming pool was empty at the time (not enough water in the well). Owner Walter wasn't there, but a lady showed us where to park. Which was not at the main building or on the grassy hill, but at the end of a path next to a smelly garage (which will some day be a hostel, maybe). Be aware of the electricity wire close to the main building; we only just fit underneath with 3,1 meters height. If higher, request a spot close to the main building. A German guy lives in a shed close by and came to chat. He told us sometimes there are 7 or 8 overlanders, also parked at the grassy hill (not level though). Rustic but OK toilet (with toilet seat and TP) and shower just up the hill. The campsite itself was not nice, but fine while preparing border crossing. Wifi was pretty good and reached the garage area. Colones 4.000 for 2 persons and a van.

When we arrived and asked if we could camp in the parking lot, the guy at reception was confused. He was not sure what to charge (what about same as tent campers?) and the owners were sleeping at 2 pm, and he did not want to wake them up. OK. So we decided to go, but just before we left he figured we could stay for US $ 20 (2 persons + van). Good wifi, good clean toilets with TP and toilet seats and hot showers (treat!). The communal area is pretty cool; covered space with kitchen and various hammocks, tables, book exchange and a pool table. Good to relax when it rains. Busy hostel. Other reviewers really liked Justin and his wife. We were only acknowledged by him when we left (we don't mind). You can camp in the very small parking lot in front of the building. With 5,5 meter we could park in a spot without blocking the entrance. You might be able to squeeze in with an extra meter, especially if you would park along the fence to the right. It all depends on the number of cars already there.

When reading the former reviews we understood this was a mirador, like the ones you see alongside a mountain road. Luckily it's not; the property is about 1 km off the road and contains 2 businesses: the Paraiso Quetzal Lodge (more upscale) and the Mirador (cabins). The owners are family (brothers/cousins?). The lodge does not allow you to camp, but it is a short walk from the Mirador. The lodge is the nicer place to hang out (restaurant with wood fire and hummingbird garden outside, wines). Here we booked the wonderful Quetzal tour for US$ 20 per person. They charge more if you don't have a car, a van is not good enough for all the fast driving. We were lucky that there was someone else to join us with a car. We left at 6 am. Guide Jorge speaks good English and is informed by local farmers, if they spot a quetzal on their property. So we saw one, amazing.

The Mirador is very simple. Toilets clean (to be used during restaurant hours, 7 am to 8 pm), didn't use the cold shower (too cold in the mountains). Slow wifi in restaurant of Mirador. Camping 2 persons + van US$ 15. Park next to cabin 14 for killer view.

We were here during a weekend and therefore witnessed how Ticos relax. Real fun experience. It's a recreation park with various pools, a trail to waterfalls (muddy) and a soccer field. On Sunday the soccer competition is in full force. And there are ranchitos, small covered open air kitchens which can be rented. The cooking starts early and the whole family is there, including abuelo and abuela. Toilets and shower at Vestidores buiding (behind restaurant, to the right of the pool). Very simple shower, toilets OK. We could not connect to the wifi, probably because it was so busy. At Saturday night there was a party, Mexican music and dancing. Not too loud and good security. You pay for camping for the day of arrival until the next day 5 pm: 16.000 colones, 2 persons and a van. We camped at the main parking lot in front of the soccer field, since our van is 3,1 meters high. If your van is smaller, you might be able to drive to the tent camping area.

Designated camping area to the left before the gate on grassy area (next to cows on the other side of the fence). It's outside the gate, but we felt very safe (there probably is a security guard at night at the thermen, we didn't see anyone). Stayed 2 nights, wifi could reach our van. Toilets and showers (1 of each, his and hers) are clean (with toilet seat and TP). In the morning Ticos arrived early by bus or car to line up in front of the gate, before the thermen open at 9 pm. Arrivals use the bathrooms after a long drive, but early in the morning the facilities are cleaned. Colones 4.000 for 2 persons + van. We filled up the water tank (through filter) at the faucet in front of the ablutions building. Did not visit the Thermen.

Designated camping area to the left before the gate on grassy area (next to cows on the other side of the fence). It's outside the gate, but we felt very safe (there probably is a security guard at night at the thermen, we didn't see anyone). Stayed 2 nights, wifi could reach our van. Toilets and showers (1 of each, his and hers) are clean (with toilet seat and TP). In the morning Ticos arrived early by bus or car to line up in front of the gate, before the thermen open at 9 pm. Arrivals use the bathrooms after a long drive, but early in the morning the facilities are cleaned. Colones 4.000 for 2 persons + van. We filled up the water tank (through filter) at the fosset in front of the ablutions building. Did not visit the Thermen.

Official name: Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahia Junquillal. Easy to reach by paved road. Only last few 100 meters are dirtroad. For foreigners US$ 19 per person per night. The ranger could not believe we wanted to stay (apparently a lot of people leave after hearing the price, but we knew in advance). Wonderful bay to relax on the beach or in the shade between trees, where there are picknick tables. Tent camping close to the beach, vans stay on the parking lot. Various showers and toilets close to ranger station. Simple but clean.

Official name: Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahia Junquillal. Easy to reach by paved road. Only last few 100 meters are dirtroad. For foreigners US$ 19 per person per night. The ranger could not believe we wanted to stay (apparently a lot of people leave after hearing the price, but we knew in advance). Wonderful bay to relax on the beach or in the shade between trees, where there are picknick tables. Tent camping close to the beach, vans stay on the parking lot. Various showers and toilets close to ranger station. Simple but clean.

Nice place to relax after (or before) the border crossing. Beautiful grounds, 3 hiking trails. We did the red trail, muddy but lovely. Saw monkeys. Just before we left Agi pointed out the tree with a sloth mother and baby. So cute! Camping US$ 10 (slow hardly existing wifi, wonderful clean and spacious toilet/shower combinations with TP), DIY washing 1 load US$ 5, meal at night US$ 15 per person (steep, but with Bratkartoffeln and eaten together with owners Agi and Guido). Two dogs, 1 huge (might be a horse ...).

Nicaragua to Costa Rica in 3 hours and 15 minutes. Interesting ... Just stay calm and have fun with it.

Exit Nicaragua
* At the border, take the left lanes (where all the trucks are waiting). The road to the right does not seem to be part of the border.
* Drive past the trucks, to the far side of the building on the right. It's like a square. When we were there, there were buses parked here.
* Enter the building on the other side (Nica side) for Immigracion. At the first booth inside the building (to the left right by the door) pay US $ 1 per person municipal tax. Then next counter, 3 meters away get stamped out, US$ 2 per person exit fee.
* Go outside and play a game of collecting autographs (you need 3 to win). First find someone in a light blue polo shirt with DGA logo and a clipboard. They fill out part of a form, check your van briefly and sign the form. Complete the form yourself and find a policeman. We found a lady in uniform sitting on bar stool at the side of the "square". Give her a copy of your license en title and you collect autograph nr 2 on the form. Go back into the building from the square side. Pass some desk into another hall with a counter in the left corner. We had to wait a bit, but once it was our turn it was fast. Hand in the TIP and the form. You get the form back with another autograph and stamp.
* Ready to drive across the border; hand in the form with the autographs at the boom.

Enter Costa Rica
* Busy border, park to the right, after you passed various shacks of bus companies and 1 Auduana shack.
* Get in line at the big building which says Equipaje (luggage check), although you don't have luggage. It is Immigracion. We had to wait a very long time, a police officer controlled the flow into the building. He got us each an entry form, so we had completed forms once we reached the desk. They wanted to see proove that you will leave (which we had, since we booked a flight). No fee for entry stamps.
* Go to the Aduana shack, right across. This is just an annex of the actual Aduana building. Here we had to complete 2 forms. Hand those in at the shack with 1 copy of: title, drivers license(s) and passport of driver(s); personal documents of all drivers. The Aduana lady was pretty annoyed to have shack duty, she reluctantly walked with us to the van, hardly checked it. You get a signed form and a little piece of paper (like a coupon).
* Drive to the actual Aduana building. Roads are confusing, take the first road to the right (from Nica border) which looks like a parking lot. The road curves to the left and you get to a huge building with loading docks for trucks. Park to the side.
* At the side of the loading docks at the far end is a window for insurance. Only 3 month insurance possible (not shorter) US $ 35 (due to exchange rate, otherwise US $ 36). Check the information on the insurance (1 orginal, 1 copy).
* Go to the copy window at building on the side (a few meters away). You need the following 5 copies to get the TIP (50 colones per copy): entry stamp in passport, photo page in passport, drivers license, title, insurance
* Now enter the huge building right across from the side of the copy place for the actual Aduana and give all copies and originals (also of the form from the shack) so they can create a TIP. No fee (just hassle).
* Drive to the border (continue the road and keep to the right). At the boom show the TIP and the form with the "coupon", the latter they keep. You are in!
Officials have a lunch break from 12.00 to 12.45 so start early. We just made it in time.

Nice place to relax after (or before) the border crossing. Beautiful grounds, 3 hiking trails. We did the red trail, muddy but lovely. Saw monkeys. Just before we left Agi pointed out the tree with a sloth mother and baby. So cute! Camping US$ 10 (slow hardly exciting wifi, wonderful clean and spacious toilet/shower combinations with TP), DIY washing 1 load US$ 5, meal at night US$ 15 per person (steep, but with Bratkartoffeln and eaten together with owners Agi and Guido). Two dogs, 1 huge (might be a horse ...).

We parked our van along the side of the building. It turned out to be a very strategic spot: there is terrace furniture in front of your door (close to the stairs), there are 2 hammocks, you can string an extension cord from the closest dorm room and there is a water spigot at the other side (closer to the fence). But most importantly: it blocks out some of the loud music at the pool (we can live with the Mexicana music, but house is just too much). We didn't use the pool (water looks funky, although there was a birthday party for kids and they survived). Shower and restrooms in small building to the left of the property (clean, shower also used by personnel by the looks of the shampoo bottles and tooth brushes). Good wifi, although they changed the password unexpextedly. Cord 280 for 2 persons + van including electricity. We stayed 2 nights.

The Finca is reached by a 1 km steep dirt road. Some low branches of trees, high clearance needed, but no 4x4. Hardly any level spots. We parked next to a truck on a small hill, towards the old disused outhouses (it's not as bad as it sounds). Wifi signal very feeble, practically non existent. Beautiful garden, many butterflies. During the day cars of day visitors for the muddy Volcan Maderas hike. They open a tab, you pay when you leave. The sunset view of Volcan Concepcion from the terrace at the main building is wonderful. The food is a bit plain. Restrooms in the far back, building is run down, but toilets clean (with TP, some with toilet seats, some bucket flush). Didn't use the shower. Camping Cord 244 for a van + 2 persons.

The Finca is reached by a 1 km steep dirt road. Some low branches of trees, high clearance needed, but no 4x4. Hardly any level spots. We parked next to a truck on a small hill, towards the old disused outhouses (it's not as bad as it sounds). Wifi signal very feeble, practically non existent. Beautiful garden, many butterflies. During the day cars of day visitors for the muddy Volcan Maderas hike. They open a tab, you pay when you leave. The sunset view of Volcan Concepcion from the terrace at the main building is wonderful. The food is a bit plain. Restrooms in the far back, building is run down, but toilets clean (with TP, some with toilet seats, some bucket flush). Didn't use the shower. Camping Cord 244 for a van + 2 persons.

Camping in fenced garden of hotel. It wasn't busy, had to wake up the receptionist who was sleeping in front of the TV. Cord 200 for a van + 2 persons, no electricty. We could use the bathroom in a room (we got a key). Wifi didn't reach the van, but you can sit at the table in the garden, closer the hotel.

We arrived the day before at midday. The 4 pm ferry was booked, as was the 7 am on Friday (it is busy during the weekend). As soon as you park a guy will talk to you and take you to the office behind the restaurant to the right. We asked what it would cost: Cord 600 for our 5,5 meter long van. The next day we came back to pay and now the price was Cord 800 because "they didn't take a well enough look the day before". Of course we made a fuss, price got down to Cord 700 for the van, Cord 50 per person and Cord 150 impuesto (harbour tax, to be paid at the window on the other side of the street. The other company (no office, just a guy), also charged Cord 800 (although we think someone told him to say this). So no alternative. How to avoid this? Make sure they have a serious look at the van when making a reservation. And tell them to confirm the price (maybe write it down in the reservation booklet?). In the end we had a laugh about it; the lady said Lesley could be a laywer for making our case (it was a verbal contract after all). We paid 3 euro extra and we have a good story. The ferry itself is small, only a few cars and trucks can fit on it. Tight parking. Big trucks are tied up to prevent shifting.

We didn't have a reservation for the return ferry on Sunday at 11 am. The lady at the office said there is no chance someone would cancel. But when we talked to the guy in charge of loading (find someone with a piece of paper with reservations) he told us to park to the side and wait. He could squeeze us in. Cord 94 harbour tax, Cord 50 municipal tax and ferry ride for same price as before (Cord 700 van + Cord 50 per person),